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Stomachs churn and eyebrows rise when the word
“haggis” is mentioned. It doesn’t have to be that way; in fact, it shouldn’t. As
the title suggests, we consider haggis to be a pâté and a good haggis ranks
among the best regional pâtés. To top it all off, haggis is unique in that it is
widely celebrated annually on Robert Burns Day, January 25. Let’s delve into the
details of haggis with the goal of making haggis a bit more palatable… perhaps
convincing you to join the Scots this coming Monday in celebration.
Haggis, like many organ based dishes was
originally created as a cheap way to feed citizens living below the poverty
line. It is quite healthy and packed with protein and nutrients. Sheep or lamb
lungs, liver, heart and kidney were easy to acquire and very inexpensive in
ancient Scotland, and formed the base for the first haggis. Grains are typically
added - the most common being oats, but barley and other grains may be used as
well as additional fat (beef, sheep or pork). Traditionally to prepare haggis,
the organs, oats and seasoning are packed into an animal’s stomach and simmered
in stock for several hours.
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2010 VALENTINES KIT
AND VALENTINES COUPLES CLASS
We provide two great options for Valentines:
(1) Our 4th Annual
Valentines Kit. We supply everything you need to prepare a four-course gourmet
meal at home.
Click here for full details.
(2) Aphrodisiac Cooking for Couples
This hands-on couples workshop will explore the sensual
side of cuisine.
Click here for full details.
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Congratulations to Donna Rees and Daryl Mason... both were winners in our December Le Creuset draw.
And congratulations to Michael Schmidt for his huge win in court! Although the laws regarding the sale of raw
milk were not overturned, the court found his "cow-share" program to be
legal. A huge first step!
Click here for more info.
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SUPERBOWL SPECIALS
Enjoy Superbowl food even if you don't enjoy the
Superbowl. We've added many specials for February
5-7.
Click here for our Sales.
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PLASTIC BAG DONATION
New regulations have mandated that we cannot use biodegradeable
plastic bags in Toronto. So, back to regular plastic bags.
Every $0.05 collected for bag purchases will be donated to the Evergreen.
Since 1991, Evergreen has been engaging Canadians in creating and sustaining
dynamic outdoor spaces in schools, communities and homes. Imagine your
city with nature.
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The Healthy Butcher’s resident Haggis Master is Paul Bradshaw, the Head
Butcher at our Queen St. store (his Haggis is available at all three of our
stores of course). Toronto-born with Scottish roots, Paul learned the art of
Haggis-making from Haggis Master Mike Dorward (multiple winner of the European
Haggis Competition) in the town of Alyth, Scotland. Paul uses lamb lungs,
hearts, kidneys and livers as the base, and then adds Berkshire pork fat, onions
and toasted steel cut oats for texture.
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The spices are a fairly simple blend of sage,
nutmeg, salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper. Instead of a stomach to pack
everything into, Paul uses a beef or canvas casing and simmers it slowly
at a low temperature. Paul says “the secret to good haggis comes more in
the method of making it rather than the exact spice mixture.” After
Paul’s encounter with Mike Dorward, Paul spent about two years perfecting his haggis recipe… personally I
believe Paul’s haggis to be the world’s best (them’s fighting words!). It truly
is delicious, with a nutty texture and savoury flavour. It has become so popular
that Paul now makes and sells his haggis year-round. Last year, Paul, handmade
and sold over 200lbs of Haggis in the month of January, and every ounce received
raving reviews! This year, the target is 350lbs to set a new record in the
Healthy Butcher Glasgow Book of Records.
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Haggis is widely referred to as the national dish
of Scotland,
immortalized by the poet Robert Burns (25
January 1759 – 21
July 1796) in his poem Address to a Haggis (see below).
Robert Burns, also known as Rabbie Burns,
Scotland's favourite son, the Ploughman
Poet, and in Scotland
as simply The Bard, is widely regarded as the national poet of
Scotland, and is celebrated worldwide.
Burns is the best known of the poets who have written in the Scots language.
On his birthday every year, Scots celebrate the poet with a traditional
dinner of haggis served with “neeps and tatties” (meaning rutabaga or yellow
turnip and potatoes, boiled and mashed separately) and a “dram” (a glass of
Scotch of course!). The Scotch part
is probably the real cause for unending happiness on Burns Day.
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Of course Scots don’t limit themselves to their national cuisine once a year;
haggis is consumed year-round, swallowed piping hot from street vendors, or
purchased frozen from grocery stores. Now, we should mention that there is proof
that Haggis is much older than the nation of Scotland. For one, the Brits
claimed to have created Haggis, to which most Scots reply “what’s next, did they
invent golf and develop whisky as well?” There’s also evidence that suggests the
Greeks and Romans both ate a version of haggis. As far as The Healthy Butcher is
concerned, haggis is as Scottish as a dish gets. |
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Life doesn’t provide nearly enough opportunities to celebrate, so take the time
to celebrate Robert Burns Day this coming Monday. Be sure to print out Robert
Burns’ poem, recite it at the top of your lungs, and follow it up with a bite of
quality haggis and a dram of single malt.
Address to a Haggis
by Robert Burns
Original text
Fair fa' your honest, sonsie face,
Great chieftain o' the puddin'-race!
Aboon them a' ye tak yer place,
Painch, tripe, or thairm:
Weel are ye wordy o' a grace
As lang's my airm.
The groaning trencher there ye fill,
Your hurdies like a distant hill,
Your pin wad help to mend a mill
In time o need,
While thro your pores the dews distil
Like amber bead.
His knife see rustic Labour dicht,
An cut you up wi ready slicht,
Trenching your gushing entrails bricht,
Like onie ditch;
And then, Oh what a glorious sicht,
Warm-reekin, rich!
Then, horn for horn, they stretch an strive:
Deil tak the hindmaist, on they drive,
Till a' their weel-swall'd kytes belyve
Are bent like drums;
Then auld Guidman, maist like to rive,
'Bethankit' hums.
Is there that ower his French ragout,
Or olio that wad staw a sow,
Or fricassee wad mak her spew
Wi perfect scunner,
Looks down wi' sneering, scornfu view
On sic a dinner?
Poor devil! see him ower his trash,
As feckless as a wither'd rash,
His spindle shank a guid whip-lash,
His nieve a nit:
Thro bloody flood or field to dash,
Oh how unfit!
But mark the Rustic, haggis-fed,
The trembling earth resounds his tread,
Clap in his wallie nieve a blade,
He'll make it whissle;
An legs an arms, an heads will sned,
Like taps o thrissle.
Ye Pow'rs, wha mak mankind your care,
And dish them out their bill o fare,
Auld Scotland wants nae skinking ware
That jaups in luggies:
But, if Ye wish her gratefu prayer,
Gie her a Haggis!
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Idiomatic translation
Nice seeing your honest, chubby face,
Great chieftain of the sausage race!
Above them all you take your place,
Belly, tripe, or links:
Well are you worthy of a grace
As long as my arm.
The groaning platter there you fill,
Your buttocks like a distant hill,
Your pin would help to mend a mill
In time of need,
While through your pores the dews distill
Like amber bead.
His knife see rustic Labour sharpen,
And cut you up with practiced skill,
Trenching your gushing entrails bright,
Like any ditch;
And then, Oh what a glorious sight,
Warm-steaming, rich!
Then, spoon for spoon, they stretch and strive:
Devil take the hindmost, on they drive,
'Til all their well-swollen bellies soon
Are tight as drums;
Then old Master, most likely to burst,
'Thanks Be' hums.
Is there one, that over his French ragout,
Or olio that would give pause to a sow,
Or fricassee that would make her spew
With perfect loathing,
Looks down with sneering, scornful view
On such a dinner?
Poor devil! See him over his trash,
As feeble as a withered rush,
His spindly leg a good whip-lash,
His fist a nit:
Through bloody flood or field to dash,
Oh how unfit!
But mark the Rustic, haggis-fed,
The trembling earth resounds his tread,
Clap in his sturdy fist a blade,
He'll make it whistle;
And legs and arms, and heads will cut,
Like tops of thistle.
You Pow'rs, that make mankind your care,
And dish them out their bill of fare,
Old Scotland wants no watery ware
That slops in bowls:
But, if You wish her grateful prayer,
Give her a Haggis!
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To access past issues of live to eat,
click here.

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